Today’s review was written and shared by Paul Martin

Van Winkle Special Reserve 12 Year

ABV 45.2%

Proof 90.4

The Van Winkle Special Reserve has been on my must drink list for a long time. So when I saw it on the menu at a recent bourbon tasting, my excitement overwhelmed me. I tasted the Van Winkle first, after which no other whiskey stood a chance in comparison.

In the glass, the deep, amber hue would be expected from a much older, higher proof bourbon. On the nose, dried fruit, honey, oak and maple provided a prelude to the sweetness within. Despite seeing it poured into my glass, I questioned briefly if it actually contained any alcohol. The fragrance was so sweet and perfume-like that some drinkers may consider dabbing it behind their ears and on their wrists.

On the palate, Lot B offered no bite, only a smoothness reminiscent of syrup. Fruit, especially cherry, and honey dominated the flavor profile. The cherry taste and syrupy mouthfeel called to mind liquid Benadryl, which was surprising but not unpleasant. Floral overtones joined the hints of oak. Vanilla and caramel, prominent in most bourbons, were afterthoughts here.

This bourbon finished like it started – smooth with a long, lingering, sweet aftertaste.

Early in the tasting, I had the presence of mind to save a dram of the Van Winkle. I drank a couple others before returning to it. By then, it had grown sweeter and creamier than I remembered, making it an excellent nightcap.

In retrospect, this bourbon defied expectations. At times, its sweetness seemed reminiscent of a liqueur rather than bourbon. Although it may not be a favorite for those with less developed sweet tooths, I recommend all bourbon lovers try it. In my case, I’m taking it off my must drink list and putting in on my must drink again list.